Indonesian Intercity Bus Grand Prix
I Like the Way You Touch the Floor When You Drop It, Kapten Rizky Hadiwijoyo: Live Report from a "Rizky" Transfer Down to Terminal Borobudur Rakyat
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Around 10 a.m., the efficient Yogyakartan city bus system deposits us at the northern outskirts in the middle of Jombor Terminal Bas, transferring us into the clutches of the inter-city network. After what feels like an eternity of waiting, we finally find ourselves seated beside our fearless driver, Kapten Rizky Hadiwijoyo*, at the helm of his lively Rizky Trans** intercity bus.
Judging by Kaptenโs loose interpretation of the scheduleโand the โrizkyโ panther-like leaps our bus takes through trafficโI brace myself for yet another round of Indonesian Grand Prix, this time, Javanese Slalom Through Diesel-Choked Exhaust Tunnels of Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta.
Pen in hand, notebook on my lap, Iโm primed for a live report. Ladies and Gentlemen, allow me to take you on an unforgettable journey aboard โRizky Transโโa battered, rickety beast whose exhaust pipe, through some cruel twist of fate, seems to have been misdirected inward rather than outward.
Just outside of Yogyakarta, in a small town of Mlati, I canโt help but notice that Kapten Rizky Hadiwijoyoโs eyes are rarely focused on the road ahead. Instead, they keep darting sideways, drawn to something far more riveting than my scribbling in the seat to his left. His gaze locks right, and after a few heart-stopping maneuvers, it dawns on me: our Kapten isnโt just drivingโheโs racing.
Heโs like a teenager immersed in one of those frantic video games, where obstacles appear out of nowhere and require lightning-fast reflexes. Kapten Hadiwijoyoโs eyes seem to span the entire horizon, scanning for threats in every direction! Itโs a monumental task to weave through the maze of motorbikes and lorries occupying three congested lanes, all while juggling the incessant demands of passengersโsome hitchhiking at the roadside and others calling out for drop-offs.
Meanwhile, our intrepid Kapten must maintain a decisive edge over his rivals in this chaotic race. Just two lanes to the right, a dilapidated heap of brown scrap metal looms, its windscreen emblazoned with the bold proclamation: โSource of Prosperity.โ The driver, sporting unshaven cheeks, has a long cigarette perpetually affixed to his upper lip, adding to the grim tableau. I couldnโt help but notice the intensity in his fiery gaze as it locked onto our Kaptenโs, a silent challenge igniting between them.
About 20 metres ahead, a battered green-and-white clunker called โSmooth Progressโ is locked in a fierce contest for supremacy with โLong Street of Memory.โ The yellow logo emblazoned on the front and back of the latter bus is fitting, as this rust bucket is so corroded that even the driver has likely forgotten the original pigmentation of its bodywork.
The โNew Super Transโโa vehicle thatโs undeniably new, super, and perhaps even transโperiodically zips in and out of the inner lane on the left. Itโs vying for dominance with โMost Wanted,โ a long, half-empty bus thatโs anything but desirable. With significantly fewer passengers than our Rizky Trans, it might be playing a shrewd game; after all, fewer passengers mean fewer stops for disembarkation, boosting its chances of crossing the finish line first.
Now that weโve braked, stopped, accelerated, been blocked, and accelerated again, I must admit that weโve been performing rather weakly. Our passengers are hopping on and off far more frequently than the more disciplined riders aboard the other titans of clattering speed. Also, I canโt help but worry about our Kapten, who seems increasingly desperate. Now, at the height of the village of Tempel, heโs executed a completely irrational and somewhat hysterical maneuver. True, weโve pulled ahead of โNew Super Trans,โ but is it really worth going to such extremes, Kapten Rizky Hadiwijoyo?
Unfortunately, after yet another frustrating stop in Tempel, โNew Super Transโ has surged ahead, proudly displaying a provocative sticker on its rear window: โAre you bold enough?โThereโs really no need for rhetorical questions, you cheeky โNew Super Transโ! Our Kapten Rizky Hadiwijoyo is certainly brave, but what can he do when an old man in a long dress, his back weighed down with a sack of rice, bellows that heโll be unloading his cargo in the suburbs of Tempel.
Meanwhile, โNew Super Transโ is swiftly pulling away, leaving a thick cloud of black fumes billowing from its big-headed tail. Just our luck! Oh, a guitarist and a drummer have climbed aboard the โRizky Trans,โ their beautiful song promising to inspire our driver to press on. Yet, after the disheartening setback caused by the rice-laden saboteur, it seems nearly impossible for our Kapten to push his right foot all the way down to the corroded floor.
Some time after noon, the battered โRizky Transโ finally limps into Terminal Borobudur Rakyat, bringing my live report to a close. Phew! Letโs disembark and set foot at the Mighty B!
* Rizky is a common Indonesian name with roots in Arabic, meaning "good fortune," and Hadiwijoyo is a Javanese surname which combines Hadi ("leader") with Wijoyo (derived from Wijaya, meaning "victory"). Many Javanese names hold meanings related to power, virtue, or success.
** In Indonesia, it's a lively tradition for busesโespecially long-distance coaches and intercity transportsโto bear unique and often creative names painted boldly on their exteriors. These names range from the aspirational (Source of Prosperity) to the adventurous (Most Wanted), often blending English and Bahasa Indonesia for added flair. Inside, the driver's name is usually displayed alongside a photo at the back of the driverโs cabin, adding a personal touch and giving passengers a sense of familiarity with the driver.
Here are some more roadside photos that I managed to snap during the race:
There will be Borobudur next week. And remember my dear subscriber that whateverโs been published before, can be found in the archives. Also, if you canโt find my post on Monday next week, wellโฆ it will mean that I have gone to do the next thing that is making me tick at that moment I timeโฆ.